Welcome to the Maunie of Ardwall blog

This is the blog of Maunie of Ardwall. After a six-year adventure sailing from Dartmouth to Australia, we are now back in Britain.

Wednesday, 28 August 2013

Safely into Rarotonga after a brilliant passage

Above: Leaving the pass at Maupiti and the dawn view of Rarotonga
 
We arrived at Avatiu, the only harbour in Rarotonga, at nine o'clock this morning, completing probably our most enjoyable passage to date. Last evening we saw an ominous line of dark clouds ahead of us – the frontal trough that had been forecast on the Grib weather files was exactly where it was supposed to be. Through a good dose of luck, though, we crossed the trough at a narrow point so only had about an hour of heavy rain and confused winds as we motored through it; another boat ten miles further south experienced several hours of rain and gusts of wind up to 50 knots.
 
Once we were through the trough, the wind swung around by about 180 degrees to the south east so for the rest of the night we could sail on a close reach at around 6 knots so we were spared the hours of motoring that we'd been dreading.
 
Rarotonga is another beautiful island with steep, rainforest-clad hills. Our brief exploration of the town has shown it to be very friendly and quite different in character to the French islands. Just as French Polynesia was full of French holidaymakers, Rarotongan shops echo to the chatter of Kiwis. The authorities, meanwhile, are a lot more thorough than the French – we've had no less than 4 officials come aboard Maunie to complete customs and immigration, confiscate any fresh fruit and veg and to spray the cabin for insects. This all involved us writing the same information on four different forms, of course, but we getting pretty quick at this now and can even remember our passport numbers without referring to them. It was all completed with plenty of good humour and laughter, though, so we warmed to the Cook Islanders even before we stepped ashore; if customs officials have a sense of humour, the normal folk must be a riot.
 
We're both feeling pretty tired after the voyage so tomorrow will be our first proper day of exploring; we'll update the blog with photos in a couple of days.

Tuesday, 27 August 2013

Emergency plumbing and brilliant sailing

Our position at 02.30 BST 27th August:
 
20 degrees 17 minutes south
158 degrees 38 minutes west
 
84 miles go to Raratonga
 
Bob Diamond (the plumber, not the banker) was overweight, fifty and looked slightly dishevelled and sweaty after the journey. "Blimey, you took some finding out here! Got lost three times an' 'ad to stop fer directions twice!" he said in a strong south-London accent, mopping his brow with a red handkerchief and flashing the gold-toothed smile of a man who knows that all mileage will be recharged at an exorbitant rate. He took a sip from his mug of tea ("Three sugars, luv, ta") and handed over his card as way of introduction:
 
Plumb Bob Ltd
Plumbers and Heating Engineers
 
Bob Diamond I.G.M.O.V.
Proprietor
 
He chuckled at my quizzical look. "Mate o' mine said it looks better if you 'ave letters after yer name. Stands for 'I got me own van' but most people don't ask." On the back of the card there were further details:
 
Diamond Geezer
Second hand and antique jewellery
 
"That's a bit of a side line, somefink for when I get too old for the plumbing caper. Keeps the missus happy, too."  he added, with a conspiratorial wink at Dianne.
 
His mug drained to the sugary dregs and introductions completed, he turned to the business in hand and started to investigate Maunie's plumbing system. His head deep in the echoing bilges he exclaimed "Strewth! Oo done this plumbing? Right old cowboy job I'd say." Then, to himself, "Terrible access – ow you s'posed to get yer 'and in there?". He emerged a minute or two later, red in the face, and sucked air through his teeth, shaking his head and tutting in disbelief before exclaiming, "It's not the worst job I've 'ad to do but it ain't pretty, I can tell ya."
 
Clearly this was more than the normal 'softening them up for the Final Bill' that tradesmen do so well (with each tut and shake of the head signifying another £20), so we braced ourselves for the worst and asked him to do his best....
 
Of course this is all fiction as, try as we might, we couldn't find an emergency plumber in this bit of the Pacific. It fell to Graham to solve Maunie's water problem whilst Dianne, sensible girl, retired to bed to recover from her night watch and to shield her delicate ears from any indelicate words. The fault was self evident and should have been simple to fix but boats tend to make the simple complicated so Graham knew he was in for a battle and left the autopilot to sail the boat whilst he worked.
 
Maunie has a 320 litre fresh water tank deep in the lowest part of her bilges, amidships. It's shaped like a wine glass in cross section to fit into the hull above the keel and you can only access its top by removing a wooden locker (used for biscuits and other night watch nibbles) under the pilot-house floor and reaching down, about another 15 inches, into the void below. There's a flexible hose that leads from the tank to an in-line filter and then splits into two other hoses. One leads to the hand-operated pump in the galley sink (so you can get water even if the electrics fail) and the other goes to an electric pump under the floor near the aft heads. This pump has an accumulator tank and it pressurises a ring main so we get running hot and cold water to the sinks and showers in both heads, the cockpit shower and the galley. Normally this pump hums away a couple of seconds after you open a tap and stops a few seconds after you close it, having re-pressurised the accumulator. Our first sign of trouble yesterday was that the pump just kept running and then no water came out.
 
We'd worked out that the fault was likely to be caused by one of three possibilities: the electric pump was faulty; the pipe from the tank was blocked or split; there was an air leak from a fitting between tank and either pump. It took Graham nearly three hours to find out which. The problem was one of very difficult access, made worse by the fact that the builders had made all the flexible hoses exactly the shortest length possible so there was no slack to allow him to reach the joints and undo the jubilee clips. Eventually, he managed to find that there was some kind of air leak in the tube leading to the hand-pump so was able, with much difficulty, to bypass this and connect the electric pump directly to the filter and, hurrah, it worked once again! The shower in the sunshine in the cockpit was well-deserved after that!
 
Anyway, plumbing aside, we've had the most lovely sailing! We finally took the Parasailor down this morning after 49 and a quarter hours, the first time we've flown it for two consecutive nights. Yesterday afternoon the wind dropped away to only 8 knots and we were ghosting along at 2 knots on a beam reach, the spinnaker only just remaining filled, but the breeze picked up again and we had 15 knots and 6 knot of boat speed through the night. The forecasted calm hasn't hit us yet but the wind is continuing to go ant-clockwise and we are now beating against a north-westerly. If we believe the latest forecast it'll continue to change direction and we should get a favourable south-easterly again after midnight.
 
The sea has been calm and the night sky stunning, with bright stars then a 3/4 moon illuminating the boat in a silvery light that makes torches unnecessary on deck so we hope tonight, our last night on passage, will be equally as good. All being well we'll be in Avatiu Harbour, Raratonga, tomorrow morning.
 
Post-script: Today Graham, sufficiently recovered from his plumbing ordeal, decided to investigate the pipe line to the galley hand-pump to try to find the air leak. It didn't take much finding – the jubilee clip on the end wasn't tight and the pipe had come off the bottom of the pump (presumably moved when we were accessing cooking pots in the locker)! His response was remarkably calm: "For Bob's sake!!" was all he said.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sunday, 25 August 2013

On Passage to Raratonga

Current position:
 
18 degrees, 58 minutes south
156 degrees 24 minutes west
 
Just a quick update. We left Maupiti (the pass through the reef fairly spectacular with huge breaking waves either side) on Friday morning and so far have made very good progress in near-perfect sailing conditions. We hoisted the Parasailor spinnaker 25 hours ago and it's still giving us good speed and a nice, relatively roll-free motion. Unfortunately the wind is forecast to drop away today and swing around the compass – when we started it was a southerly, then south-east and now it's north-east, due to go round to north-west by tonight so we're making the most of what we have.
 
We have an engineering challenge to deal with today. For some reason the main water pump isn't lifting drinking water from the main tank so Graham is about to go bilge-ratting to try to find the cause. Before we left we installed a small second tank against this very eventuality and we also have emergency supplies as well as the ability to fill jerry cans directly from the watermaker so it's a nuisance rather than a serious problem but the resolution may involve some grazed knuckles and bad words! We'll update progress tomorrow.
 
This aside, all's well though we're both still a bit sleep-deprived as usual for the start of a voyage.

Friday, 23 August 2013

A video for shark fans

Graham's just got round to tidying up various video clips so he's edited together some footage of the Black Tipped Sharks which followed us around when we were snorkeling the gin-clear water in Kauehi atoll back in the Tuamotus Archipelago.

Click here to view it.

Tomorrow is our last day in French Polynesia (we'll leave at lunchtime) so we bid a fond farewell to the French Polynesian Franc:


Ten thousand francs is equivalent to about $90 US and the ATM's have a habit of just giving you one 10,000 F note if you ask for that amount - you can imagine how pleased the local shopkeepers are if you go in expecting change from it! Anyway tomorrow morning we'll go to the local village shop to try to spend our last few coins.

Our next hop is about 520 miles to Raratonga (where the currency, incidentally, is the New Zealand Dollar) so we hope to be there by Tuesday,

Thursday, 22 August 2013

Swimming with Manta Rays

Over the past two days we've been snorkeling with giant Manta Rays in Maupiti's lagoon - there's a favourite spot (a 'cleaning station') where they glide over a rock and all the Ramora fish come to clean the pests off their skin. We went over in the dinghy (and this morning did a full circumnavigation of the island) and found them (9 of them together, the largest had a span of over 8 feet). They were in about 6 metres of water; unfortunately it wasn't crystal clear but you get the idea from the following photos and video:






Here's a short video of the action

Tuesday, 20 August 2013

Maupiti photos from height

We scaled the 'mountain' in Maupiti yesterday morning - a fairly strenuous and hot climb (with ropes provided at three particularly steep bits). However the view made it all worthwhile and through the binoculars we could see whales breaching just outside the reef.

Here are a few photos:



 The pass through the reef


 An airstrip to test the nerve of any pilot!


King Peter and Queen Heidi of Stormvogel Land

Monday, 19 August 2013

The legendary Pole Dancers of Mauputi

Our last day in Bora Bora was a busy one - a trip to the cyber-laundrette (half an hour's internet connection with every wash!), a formal clear out at the Gendarmerie and a final visit to the supermarket.


The Bora Bora moorings


No tumble-dryer required!

We left at 07.00 yesterday morning for the 27-mile crossing to Maupiti and unfortunately the breeze never really became established so, after an hour's very pleasant but slow sail with the Parasailor, we motored the rest of the way to arrive at the pass into the lagoon just after midday - which is as close to slack water as you can get. The pass comes with lots of dire warnings on the chart - current of up to 9 knots flows out and meets the incoming south-easterly wind to create scarey standing waves in rough conditions. When we arrived there were white rollers crashing onto the reef but the entrance was easy.

Maupiti is lovely - a big surrounding reef and low-lying motus (islands) make it very like a Tuamotus atoll, except for a high, wooded island in the middle; about 1000 people live here so the village has a couple of shops and a bolangerie. We're surprised to discover it has just been annexed by Germany and renamed Stormvogel Land - see Peter's blog for details and some great photos of the pass.

We're hearing great reports, from other boats, of manta rays in the lagoon and whales just outside so we plan to go and explore tomorrow but this morning there was a rare sighting of the Pole Dancers of Maupiti:


Dianne scaled Maunie's mast - her first time to the top. It's 58 feet above the waterline so quite a scarey cimb so Graham was very proud of her for conquering her fear of heights. Meanwhile Heidi was at the top of Stormvogel's mast to investigate why the anchor light isn't working.


The view from the top of the mast is pretty good - here are a few photos.


Looking south towards the pass, Stormvogel in the foreground


   Looking west towards the main island


Looking east to the Motu Tuanai - Gallinago in the foreground

Video fans will find another YouTube posting here - we'll gradually add more videos to the Maunie of Ardwall channel on www.Youtube.com (just search 'Maunie of Ardwall) but there are five there now.