Welcome to the Maunie of Ardwall blog

This is the blog of Maunie of Ardwall. After a six-year adventure sailing from Dartmouth to Australia, we are now back in Britain.

Wednesday, 16 October 2013

Team StormMaunie takes first place at Vava'u Regatta!

Winners of the 2013 Vava'u Regatta (Fancy Dress Division)
Right to Left: Little Red Riding Hood; Robin Hood, Motherhood and a Fine Specimen of Manhood
 
We were delighted with our first prize at last night's prize-giving ceremony, even if it was for the best fancy dress team! The prize was pretty good – a free haul-out, pressure wash and five days on the hard-standing when we arrive in Opua, New Zealand. Stormvogel have already decided to do their lift-out at another port so generously passed the prize onto Maunie.
 
As for the final race, well we did pretty well. There was a very good breeze (around 25 knots) for the return passage race so the conditions suited a heavy boat. We managed a very good start, neck and neck with fellow Southern Cross Net boat Ithica, and began to pull out a good lead as Stormvogel touched 9 knots. On the final run towards home, though, a very well-sailed (and much lighter) Beneteau hoisted a spinnaker and overtook us. The finish was slightly novel – a crew member had to get ashore to a waterfront bar to sign off before each boat was deemed to have finished. Any means to get the crew member ashore was allowed so we brought Stormvogel close to the shore and Peter bravely jumped overboard and swam for it! We came a close second and Peter swam clutching a a waterproof bag containing some cash so he could enjoy a cold beer as just rewards.
 
Internet is still pretty unreliable here but we hope to be able to post some photos before we leave.
 
Talking of leaving, we are looking at the weather forecast and think our time in Tonga will be cut short by a week or two. The long term forecast shows a reasonably intense low pressure system building over Vanuatu to the north west of Fiji and it's heading roughly our way. Close to its centre there could be winds of around 40-50 knots and, if nothing else, it'll bring rain and squally conditions here by the middle of next week. Meanwhile, there's a nice looking weather window for the next few days to had towards New Zealand. So, pending a few more reviews of the weather charts, it looks as though we'll clear out of Tonga tomorrow afternoon and set sail for NZ on Thursday morning so as to get south of the nasty weather.
 
We'll keep you informed of our plans...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Tuesday, 15 October 2013

Some photos of the Vava'u Regatta

Here are some photos (mostly taken by Peter - owner's perogative whilst racing!) from the final day's passage race:






 Zoomax, the largest boat in the race...

 ... and Destarte, the smallest

 A contemplative Dianne
 

A very proud owner

Sunday, 13 October 2013

A brilliant passage race

Yesterday was the first passage race from Neiafu harbour out to the islands inthe east of the Vava'u group - about 12 miles, but with lotss of tactical options as to which sides of the various islands to pass. At one stage we almost grazed the rocks of one little island as we fought for a good line to windward.

We were sailing aboard Stormvogel, with Graham as race skipper, and good a pretty decent start in the fleet of about 35 boats. There was some very close-quarters racing and we held off a much bigger and racier boat called Zoomax until the wind increased and she lived up to her name. We finished in the top 7 monohulls (we think - the results will be announced tomorrow evening) so were pleased with how we did.

The racing over, all the boats achored off the Mandala resort and there was a cracking 'Almost Full Moon' party so this morning there were a few sore heads around. We headed back to Maunie after Peter dropped us off at the old harbour pier (about a 20 minute walk from the main town) and we'll return to Stormvogel in the morning for the return race. Peter took some great photos so we'll copy some of them onto the blog in the next couple of days.





Friday, 11 October 2013

A few photos from Tonga

In the hope of better internet connections at 11.00pm, here are a few more photos of life in Tonga (all from  the island of Hunga):

 Semi-wild pigs are to be seen on the beaches and in the villages

 One of no less than six churches in a village of 380 people

 The well-kept and well-funded Mormon church

 Traditional dug-out canoes are still in use; this is Vaha who brought us vanilla and coconuts

 Views from the windward beach



 A Hermit Crab

 

Foreign Aid and Electricity


Above: Island Village house with new solar power
We are now back in the main anchorage at Neiafu for the Vava’u Regatta which started last night with a fancy-dress pub crawl. It was a fun event! Photos to follow. The first race took place this evening, a short round-the-cans race in the habour with only about 13 boats taking part - the rest, sensibly, put off by the almost complete absence of wind. We ghosted around the course, chatting to the other boats but eventually had to abandon when the wind disappeared altogether. Quite a contrast from the middle of last night when a front came though bringing a huge rain squall and over 35 knots of wind!
The harbour is full of boats now so the internet is completely overloaded so we’ve just a posted a couple of photos from the villages. There has been a big push from Japan to bring solar power to individual houses in the islands which has just been completed. Being slightly cynical, one feels that the rush of offers for aid from China (significantly) and now Japan is linked to bigger political aims such as fishing rights (Chinese fleets are suddenly hoovering fish up here) and pro-whaling votes.
Will hope to add more photos when the internet is less busy (middle of the night, probably!)

Friday, 4 October 2013

The lesson plan that came to naught...

Volcanic rocks on the windward side of Hunga
 
Whilst we were in Hunga we met Merji, one of the primary school teachers outside the little school. She and her husband are government-appointed teachers who are sent to the island schools for up to 3 years at a time; on Hunga there are 39 children from Year 1 to Year 6. The Year 6 (10-year olds) take an exam to get into secondary school – which is in the main town of Neiafu – and the exams were taking place as we met her, so the rest of the kids had two days off. She showed us the Science paper which looked pretty challenging – a two-hour exam with thirty pages and lots of questions on climate change, soil erosion, basic physics and biology and so on.
 
We asked her whether they would be interested in us coming to talk to the older children (who learn English from Year 3) about our travels and Merji was very keen on the idea. We went back to Maunie and put together a little lesson plan, with photos from England as well as from the voyage, plus maps and our inflatable globe, to go back into school on Thursday morning. Unfortunately we then received a message that both teachers had been called into a meeting in Neiafu on Thursday, so the kids had another day off and we had to move on so we didn't get to deliver what we think, modestly, would have been a very good lesson! Ah, well.
 
To make up for our disappointment we had a cracking sail to windward, up through the islands and are now anchored off Kapa Island. The snorkelling here is great and we're told that the locals in the tiny village here will supply fruit and veg so we'll go ashore to explore. Mind you we have several papaya aboard, all just turning ripe so we need to eat them;  now that we have discovered the trick of halving and de-seeding them and marinating them in the fridge with a tot of Bundeberg Australian rum, they are our new Favourite Thing.
 
We've a couple more weeks here in this wonderful cruising ground and will take part in the Vava'u Regatta at the end of next week – a mixture of racing and socialising which usually attracts around 70 boats. It's not all playtime, though, as we are taking very seriously the prospect of the 1100 mile passage to New Zealand at the end of the month. This will probably be our most testing voyage for quite a while as we'll be breaking out of the tropics and meeting the SW prevailing winds at the end of the NZ winter; there's a very good chance of meeting a gale on the nose. We are therefore planning storage in the boat to prevent things crashing around if we meet big seas with the wind ahead of us and this morning got out the bright orange storm staysail (unused and pristine since it was made 15 years ago) and hoisted it to make sure we can do it relatively easily in 30 knots of wind with waves crashing over the foredeck!
 
We are out of range of wifi internet here so can only add the odd photo via the satellite phone but we'll add some more once we get back to town next week. Do send us any questions, comments or news to maunie (at) mailasail.com in the meantime.
 

Tuesday, 1 October 2013

British Seagull found in Tonga!

Above, Maunie at anchor in the Hunga lagoon and British Seagull - rust in peace
 
We have moved to the island of Hunga to the west side of the Vava'u archipelago. It's an ancient volcano so we are in the sheltered lagoon, accessed via a scarily narrow and shallow pass on the western side, anchored off the village that's home to about 300 people. The volcanic soil is rich and dark so the plantation next to the village is very productive; yesterday we traded a t-shirt and cap for some papaya, coconuts and a local leafy plant which we cooked like spinach.
 
As we walked around the village we came upon the remains of a British Seagull outboard motor which brought memories flooding back for me (Graham). These iconic machines were produced in Poole, Dorset, for about 60 years to a design that didn't really change very much in that time. Anybody who used a dinghy tender in the 70's will probably have used a Seagull and probably will still bear the scars; these were the days before the arrival of fancy Japanese engines with their namby-pamby, user-friendly features and smart, noise-reducing covers. British Seagulls were a challenge and the successful mastering of their idiosyncratic ways was an important life lesson. My first encounter was aboard the Wayfarer sailing dinghy belonging to a great family friend, Keith Hodgson, as we motored noisily around Fleet Bay in Scotland in search of mackerel when a flat calm descended upon us and I've dealt with a few since then; we had one for the dinghy on Dad's boat for a while.
 
The chief outputs of a Seagull were, in descending order: Noise; Smoke and (coming up a rather distant third) Locomotive Power. Starting and stopping the beasts were challenges that tested your manhood (these motors were definitely Not for Girls) and there were plenty of opportunities to inflict injury upon yourself. Even carrying the things from the car to the dinghy was tricky. The old press adverts for British Seagulls had a drawing of a jolly sailor, duffle bag in one hand, Seagull hoisted onto a, presumably well-padded, shoulder but the reality was that there were lots of knobbly and sharp bits to dig into your flesh and the engine would inevitably have a general coating of sticky black oil which would spread itself onto clothes and sails if you weren't careful. They also weighed a tonne.  The engine in the advert must have been the Forty Featherweight which, admittedly, a strong man could probably lift unaided but the bigger engines – the Forty Plus, the Century and the Century Plus – were definitely two–man-plus-block-and-tackle affairs. The quaint names gave no clues to vaguely useful information such as horsepower but I remember that Keith's Century model was incredibly heavy yet managed to push the Wayfarer along at no more than 5 knots.
 
The Seagull designers obviously took inspiration from steam locomotives, using lots of cast iron and brass, and they didn't believe in hiding the moving bits from view and out of harm's way. Most obviously there was a completely unguarded spinning flywheel at the top of the motor. To start the engine you took a 3ft length of rope with a knot in one end and a round plastic ball in the other (Keith used a Clacker confiscated from a child at his school – if you don't know what a Clacker is, ask your parents), put the knot into a notch at the top of flywheel, wrap around 6 turns of rope and prepared to pull as hard as you could. First, though, you'd adjust the shiny chrome throttle lever to what you though would be the optimal position, flick the choke flap into place, stretch the muscles in your shoulder and mutter a dark threat ("Now then, you bastard" was my favourite). Your first to 13th pulls would result in nothing but a belligerent chug from the recalcitrant machine so you'd repeat the process, fiddling haplessly with the throttle and trying to judge when the carburettor was about to become flooded (this was the moment to flick the choke flap open). Finally, just after you'd uttered the immortal phrase "That's it, the bloody thing isn't going to start, get the oars out" a final pull would see the motor suddenly burst into deafening life.
 
The next phase of the Seagull challenge would immediately be upon you. The things had no clutch (unless you owned for the monstrously heavy Century Plus) so were always in forward gear; the unexpected ignition would see the boat immediately surge forward. If you were really unlucky, the knot of the starter cord would get stuck in the flywheel and the cord, plus Clacker, would whirl viciously around the engine, making it impossible to get at the tiller or throttle without being whipped painfully.  In any case, stopping a Seagull at the best of times was an art in itself since there was no off-switch;  you just closed the throttle and hoped it would die. Usually it would keep going with a lumpy 'tickover' of about 100 rpm and I have seen brave people adopt a Sumo Wrestler stance and grab the spinning flywheel with both hands. A safer method was to put the palm of your hand over the trumpet-shaped air intake to the carburettor; the suction would leave a circular mark on your flesh (that would wear off after a couple of hours) but it at least starved the beast of oxygen and the sudden quiet that descended over the boat would make you aware of the ringing in your ears. Honestly these engines would have a modern health and safety officer run screaming into the trees. An environmental officer wouldn't like the Seagull much either. It was, of course, a 2-stroke engine so you mixed oil into the petrol to lubricate the moving parts. Our new Tohatsu 9.8hp outboard uses a frugal 100:1 mix (1 part oil to 100 parts petrol) but the Seagulls needed 10:1 so your progress would be followed by a haze of blue smoke to add to the noise pollution.
 
As the quiet, light, efficient and clean Japanese competition gained a stranglehold on the UK boating market, British Seagull belatedly attempted to modernise its designs with, shock-horror, the addition of a recoil starter and a noise reducing cover but fundamentally the works beneath remained unchanged so the additions had all the effectiveness of a whale-tail spoiler on a Morris Minor. The brand died and today all around the world there will be the remains of these engines lying unused. They won't rust, due to the years of oil leaks, so they remain as a testament to British over-engineering and under-development. I'm sure that there's a society for the preservation of old outboards somewhere in the UK who keep a few of these old motors going and I believe that Keith's eldest son Nick has kept his dad's old Century – polished and chromed to the nth – as an ornament. Half a gallon of 10:1 mix, a few well-chosen words and no more that 20 pulls on the Clacker would probably see it burst into life once more.
 
A note from Di: if the above blog has gone right over your head, you're not alone. The only detail that woke me up was the mention of Clackers. Yes, I remember them being banned so my pair sadly ended their life hanging on the handle of my wardrobe door as I wasn't aware of their value to Seagull owners. For slightly younger readers, well you don't know what you've missed and you should regard today's blog as a history / engineering lesson!!